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I am getting so pissed. I bought a new OEM CAS about two years ago, and it failed after 12 months and 13 days. Wouldn't you know that the Nissan regional rep refused to warranty it, so I was stuck with a 370 dollar piece of aluminum. It failed completely out of the blue. Driving along, pop! Bang! Flup Flup! Dead. Got the car towed home, put in another OEM one I had that the bearings were dried out in, started right up and ran fine. So, instead of buying another new OEM one, I bought a reman that was done by a company called A-1 Cardone. Worked fine, for a few months, until the bearing failed, sent it back and got it replaced, and the one that replaced it will get 15 degrees at about 60% counter clockwise, but it makes the car miss at idle, and fall on it's face at about 6400 rpm. It's like I lose half the motor. When I look at it inside under magnification, some of the 360 degree slots look to be kinda screwy, like they are out of round on the inside, and not perfectly straight. So the guy at the Advance close to me said that he would get me a new manufacture aftermarket one. Cool right? Yeah, but with it turned fully counter clockwise, 12 btdc is all the timing I can get. I pulled them both apart and looked, and it is obvious that the latest (new manufacture aftermarket)one is off on the wheel orientation. It doesn't miss, and will pull to the limiter, but I cannot get enough timing out of it. I thought I was getting it right(15 degrees), but that was measuring off the PTU loop, when measured by adding a jump wire on the number one plug/coil, I can only get 12. Is there a way to re-orient the wheel? It appears that on the newest one, the wheel is about 9 or ten degrees retarded from where it should be when I look at the two side by side. I bought a used one from a member here that should be on it's way today, and am hopeful that solves my problem. Until then, any thoughts are appreciated, and BTW the teeth on the drive dowel are fine, and the log files on datascan don't show the timing jumping around.
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